Autumn in New York
Before I left for New York City, I was making affairs tidy in my old haunts of Portland and Hood River, Oregon and I bought groceries at the SE Portland, Hawthorne district, Fred Meyer store. When I lived in the neighborhood, for a few decades, I shopped there. A big gal, with farm girl hair and dress, held up a sign at the entrance that said “homeless please help”, as I walked by she asked “have you seen my sister, she’s my twin”? I replied “yes but it’s been about twenty years”. She gave me a cross-eyed scowl.
I was walking up New York’s 8th Ave from Penn station, about a week later, and I jaywalked the corner from 8th to West 39th and a crazy-eyed, reefer-smoking panhandler caught my gaze and stopped his rap for a split minute and said “nice hat” about my ski patrol ball cap and I said “you want it” and he said “no, suits you”. The exchange didn’t throw him off balance, nor I. Weird finds me, I guess. And as a buddy says “don’t let the dog know you’re scared and you’ll be alright”. Good to remember anywhere you travel.
My partner is in New York to make her art but also loves the court game of pickleball. I’m here because NYC post-pandemic, in the autumn, seems like a worthy adventure and I wanted to see an old buddy from thirty years ago. The morning after I arrived we took the C line, on the masked-up subway, to Central Park and she played scrappy pickle ball with the locals. I didn’t have shoes or an inclination to play but I liked the scene. People, mostly older people like me, of different races and accents just playing their best and having somewhere to be without a mask on.
Zabar's, the famous upper west side deli was my reward for watching pickleball. The nova loxs and bagels were right up there with the best of my life. Our boutique hotel was in mid-town and there are authentic and delicious delis, cafes, bars, groceries, diners and restaurants in Hell’s Kitchen. Most joints aren’t new at the task and they do it well. The global pandemic hit these shops hard but most adapted and showed New York attitude and bounce with their curbside shanties. Pocatello, ID has a lot to learn from a tidy, 9th ave, pizza joint.
It was an afternoon walk later to the Whitney Museum, and the Jasper Johns show, and we swerved through the sketchy sidewalk crowd down to the High Line walkway. Pizza was necessary for energy and the NY style will keep you satisfied on a day hike.